When experiencing the Sankuanz AW17 "Destroys" collection the designer Shangguan Zhe asks you to pull off your white gloves, remove your goggles and look outside of political correctness, outside of politics, at a reversal of an established system. AW17 is Part 2 to the SS17 collection exploring man's relationship with space. This season Zhe explores man's relationship to chemistry now and in the future.
Military uniforms with raw edges reveal an unraveling of the establishment, primitive topstitched suits and parkas, jumpsuits with industrial straps, as well as protective bio-chemical protections suits made from DuPont materials are emblazoned with symbols and emblems suggesting danger or rebellion, like "Immigrant", "Visual Pollution", "Natural Selection", "Massacre" and "Destroy", elements in the globalisation of contemporary society hinting to a post apocalyptic world but in an idealistic way.
The collection is a mix of researched materials, Zhe creates his own textiles in the collection as well as using industrial materials like UHMWPE and aramid fiber also used in NASA spacesuits.
Completing the silhouette are accessories like visored bucket hats, pop military backpacks, high top sock trainers.
"Sometimes, the function and the aesthetics of garments is a mere illusion," Zhe says. You will eventually get wet on a rainy day. Your style will look outdated, embarrassing and ridiculous on a more certain or a
nearer date. Wittgenstein said, sometimes problems are not solved by answers, but by the disappearance of problems themselves. Contemporary times will eventually be gone and replaced by history, and nobody has a backup of this world. In front of the prism of chemistry, of reason, with no trace to idealism, we can only ask questions and verify ideas to acquire the precious moment of reality. Our eyes will see the light and we will become a step closer to a truer vision.
The only hope, the only opportunity to change this situation, lies in rational creations by mankind like chemistry. Chemistry collects not only the outstanding wisdom of a few, but also the psychological needs and the social properties of entire communities.